Dries Van Noten’s men’s collection for Fall 2026 made a striking impression during its runway presentation, showcasing a blend of historical inspiration and contemporary design. Under the creative direction of Julian Klausner, the collection draws from a rich menswear archive, featuring elements such as kilts reminiscent of the early 2000s. Klausner expressed his excitement about the collection, emphasizing the importance of engaging both his team and the audience.
During a preview, Klausner detailed the extensive research and development behind the collection, highlighting the innovative use of prints. Some floral designs were crafted using Polaroids, mirroring the 500 photographs sent out as invitations to the show. The collection introduces an eclectic mix of motifs, including botanicals, Fair Isle patterns, and geometric prints.
Klausner opened the show with slender, military-inspired outerwear, underscoring tailored coats as a focal point for the Fall 2026 season. These pieces often featured detachable knitted collars, reinforcing a strong emphasis on knitwear. Despite the diverse array of patterns, the designer maintained a cohesive aesthetic through a predominantly muted color palette. He also revisited shades from founder Dries Van Noten’s earlier, bold collection inspired by Francis Bacon, adding layers of depth to the presentation.
The collection’s narrative centers on a coming-of-age theme, capturing that delicate transition from adolescence to adulthood. Klausner described a young man “leaving home, packing things that he loves,” which is reflected in collegiate elements like pocket crests and graduation capes made from traditional menswear fabrics. These references create a youthful spirit, complemented by accessories such as knit trapper hats and oversized school bags.
Klausner’s ambition for this collection was clear. “I want to play around with a lot of things, and I want to make sure I get a strong message across,” he stated. His innovative approach extended to accessories, featuring super-flat leather shoes and wrestling boots, alongside unique designs like an apron-like garment that creates the illusion of an untucked shirt.
As the fashion world keenly observes, Dries Van Noten’s Fall 2026 collection illustrates a bold exploration of identity and youthful expression, setting the stage for what is sure to be a defining season in menswear.
